BCITRA Travel

BCIT Geezers On Mt. Rainier (14,400 ft)

July 10, 11,12, 2007

Article by Karl Boerner

(Click on the thumbnails to view a larger image.)

The plan was to rally some seniors to climb the Tahoma Glacier Route. Four persons showed interest; but only one was, in the end, ready to try the Emmons Glacier Route with me, a route that I had done twice before and is generally not difficult and, it has a reasonably-easy access.

The approach to the route had been damaged by heavy rains. A rainfall of 18 inches in 36 hours at Paradise in November '06 caused heavy damage to roads and trails. Base camp.

We drove to Enumclaw and followed Highway 410 into the National Park. After paying the climbers' and entrance fees of (US $30 and $5 respectively) we parked the car at the White River Campground. The plan was to camp the first night at Glacier Basin, the second night at Camp Schurman on the Emmons Glacier, and make the summit on the third day and then hike out. The trail into the Basin had been washed out for about a mile and was very rough, but well-marked with yellow tape. We had the campground to ourselves and enjoyed the visit of a friendly deer in the evening..

The hike to Camp Schurman at 9,500 ft. is a grind. While it took about two hours to get to the Glacier Basin Camp, a gain of 1,600 ft., it took four hours to hike about 4,000 vertical feet. The tents are put up in a snowy, windy saddle and a good sleep requires a good tent!.

We started the climb at 1:00 am with several other rope teams. Lack of moonlight forced us to use headlamps. Everybody wore crampons. The route had been changed and seemed endlessly steep and tiring. It took us eight hours to get to the summit crater. Trekking the craterHad I known about the change, I would have chosen the Camp Muir route, which I have done twice before but which is not as scenic and is usually more crowded. Descending was easy, we got back to Camp Schurman in three hours. The ice had melted a bit and the crampons bit easier. Glacier travel means one has to dance around a few crevasses, but they were well wanded, meaning marked with flags, and we were careful..

Some remarks: there are toilets at Glacier Basin and Schurman Camp; drinking water (creek) can be found at the Basin but none at Schurman..

Some parties rope up on the Inter Glacier on the way to Steamboat Prow and Camp Schurman. On my three trips I have never roped up and have observed that many people do sitting glissades on their way into the valley. The Grey-Crowned Rosy Finches at Camp Schurman pick up crumbs around one's feet..

Picture this happening in the early morning when you're up at about 12,000 ft.:.
The crampon on my right boot appeared to be broken and my footing wasn't solid. I shouted down to Ian that I had a problem and he came up on the rope. It isn't easy to repair a crampon under a boot and on a steep slope. Ian helped me and we tied the steel fangs to my boot by using some string. As we got up to continue I noticed that the two rope teams ahead of us had sat down to wait in order to render help if needed. That gesture was the most memorable moment of the climb for me.

Participants: Ian Ross (63), Karl Boerner (74).